1: Fridge Not Cooling
Condenser loops are messy – If the condenser curls at the rear of your cooler are apparent, they can gather dust/spider webs and be too grimy to even think about working appropriately. Clean them completely and check assuming that the issue is fixed.
Evaporator Fan Motor not working – If the evaporator fan engine isn’t working, it won’t flow cold air in the new food sources compartment. You might require proficient assistance to supplant or fix the engine.
Condenser Fan Motor – If the condenser fan engine isn’t working, it won’t draw air through the condenser loops and over the blower. You will require proficient assistance to supplant or fix the engine.
Start Relay – If the beginning hand-off is broken, the blower might neglect to begin by any means. You will require proficient assistance to supplant or fix the beginning transfer.
Temperature Control Thermostat – If the temperature control indoor regulator isn’t working, it won’t supply voltage to the blower, evaporator fan engine, and condenser fan engine (if material). You will require proficient assistance to supplant or fix this.
Start Capacitor – A broken Start Capacitor won’t allow your blower to begin. You will require proficient assistance to supplant or fix the beginning capacitor.
2: Fridge Not Defrosting
Thaw out Timer – If the thaw out clock is imperfect, it may not progress into the thaw out cycle, or it may not send capacity to the thaw out radiator during the thaw out cycle. This might require substitution.
Thaw out Heater Assembly – If the thaw out warmer get together is damaged, the thaw out framework won’t work, and ice will keep on aggregating on the evaporator loops. This might require substitution.
Thaw out Thermostat – If the thaw out indoor regulator is flawed, the indoor regulator contacts won’t near permit ability to stream to the thaw out warmer. You will require proficient assistance to fix this.
Thaw out Sensor with Fuse – If the thaw out sensor meld blows, the thaw out framework won’t work, and the cooler won’t thaw out. The thaw out sensor combine can’t be reset and should be supplanted in the event of shortcoming.
3: Freezer is Cool however Fridge Stays Warm

Evaporator Fan Motor – If the evaporator fan engine isn’t working, it won’t circle cold air in the new food sources compartment. You might require proficient assistance to supplant or fix the engine.
Damper Control Assembly – If the damper doesn’t open as expected, it won’t give sufficient virus air access to the fridge. Actually take a look at the damper control to decide whether it is broken or stuck shut.
Thermistor – If the thermistor opposition doesn’t change, or the thermistor doesn’t have progression, supplant the thermistor.
Temperature Control Board – If the control board is defective, it might quit sending voltage to the blower or fan engines.
Thaw out Control Board – If the thaw out control board fizzles, the fridge won’t run the thaw out cycle, and ice will keep on amassing on the evaporator loops.
4: Fridge Leaking Water
Obstructed or Freezing Defrost Drain – If the thaw out channel is frozen, the water will flood the channel box and stream down to the lower part of the compartment from where it can ultimately spill onto the floor. Check the thaw out channel to decide whether it is stopped up or frozen. In the event that the thaw out channel is frozen, defrost the ice. What’s more, flush the channel with heated water to guarantee that it is clear of garbage.
Water Tank Assembly – Inspect the water tank gathering for any releases that is making the water stream out. The break might be tiny and elusive. On the off chance that you find a break, supplant the water tank. Try not to endeavor to fix the water tank-paste won’t adhere as expected to the plastic of the tank. This needs proficient support.
5: Fridge Freezing Food
Temperature Control Thermostat – If the temperature control indoor regulator isn’t working as expected, it might make the refrigerant framework run longer than needed and the fridge will be excessively cold. Check at the most minimal setting and assuming this is as yet occurring, call for help.
Thermistor – If the thermistor is deficient, the blower and evaporator fan might run too as often as possible and the cooler will be excessively cool. This might require supplanting.
Temperature Control Board – If the control board is defective, it might send persistent voltage to the blower or fan engines. A repairman can analyze this issue and fix it.
Fundamental Control Board – The principle control board may be flawed. Yet, this is an extremely uncommon event, and you should ensure different frameworks are checked completely for shortcomings. Assuming that none of these parts is damaged, consider supplanting the fundamental control board.
Damper Control Assembly – The air damper control opens and closes to give the legitimate measure of cold air access to the fridge compartment. On the off chance that the damper doesn’t close as expected, it will give an excess of cold air access to the fridge.
6: Light Not Working
As a rule it is the light that is deficient, and basically supplanting it will get the job done. If there should arise an occurrence of LED strips or the light still not working after substitution, almost certainly, the light board or attachment has an issue, and is best checked by an expert.

These fridge issues could strike any time after you buy the apparatus. While maker guarantee will cover fixes for as long as a year, any fixes after that time will be exorbitant. In any case, assuming that you buy a maintenance agreement, your ice chest will be safeguarded for longer, and fixes or substitutions should be possible by approved help people.